Pastis, the quintessential French aperitif, has become a symbol of leisure, tradition, and conviviality, deeply woven into the fabric of French culture. Ever since absinthe was banned in 1915 due to its rumored hallucinogenic effects, pastis has risen to take its place, offering a milder, anise-flavored alternative that has become a staple of apéro, the cherished French aperitif hour.
Across France, regional preferences for aperitifs vary, from cassis-infused kir in Burgundy to beer in the north, yet pastis is the one constant found in cafés from Marseille to Paris. Despite its strong association with the south, where it evokes images of sun-soaked afternoons and games of pétanque, pastis has established itself as a nationwide favorite, accounting for one-fifth of all spirits sold in France. Unlike other regional aperitifs, which tend to remain confined to their place of origin, pastis is omnipresent, found in homes and bars throughout the country.
Its popularity is not simply a matter of taste but also a result of historical circumstance. Following the phylloxera epidemic of the 19th century that devastated France’s vineyards, absinthe emerged as a popular substitute for wine. Infused with anise and other botanicals, absinthe introduced a new flavor to aperitif culture and gained a cult following among artists and intellectuals. However, its rapid rise was abruptly halted when it was banned over fears that it led to madness. The void left behind created an opportunity for a new anise-based drink to take center stage, and pastis emerged as the natural successor.
While both absinthe and pastis share an aniseed profile, the similarities end there. Absinthe, with its high alcohol content and complex botanicals, was regarded as the drink of bohemian artists, carrying an air of decadence and controversy. Pastis, on the other hand, was milder, more approachable, and free of the stigma attached to its predecessor. It retained the ritualistic appeal of dilution, as drinkers mixed it with water to unlock its characteristic cloudy transformation, but without the excesses associated with absinthe.
The rise of pastis as France’s go-to aperitif was largely driven by the entrepreneurial genius of Paul Ricard, a Marseillais who introduced his version of the drink in 1932. His marketing prowess played a crucial role in pastis’ nationwide dominance. While the Pernod brand had already entered the anisette market, it was Ricard’s keen sense of branding that made his pastis the most recognizable. He wove a narrative of authenticity, claiming his recipe was inspired by a local poacher’s knowledge of wild herbs, and personally traveled across France, introducing pastis to bistros and cafés one by one. His famous motto, “Make a friend a day,” embodied his strategy of building loyalty through personal connections.
Ricard also understood the power of visual branding, producing eye-catching posters that depicted the sunny Mediterranean lifestyle. Beyond advertisements, he pioneered branded merchandise, creating Ricard glasses, ashtrays, and pitchers that soon became fixtures in French homes and cafés. His marketing coup during the 1948 Tour de France, where thousands of Ricard-branded objects were distributed, cemented his pastis as a household name. Today, these vintage items are highly sought after by collectors, with rare pieces fetching thousands of euros.
The enduring appeal of pastis lies in its simplicity and versatility. Traditionally served with water and ice, it can be customized to taste, with variations like the perroquet (with mint syrup), tomate (with grenadine), and mauresque (with almond orgeat syrup). While modern mixologists have experimented with pastis-based cocktails, its traditional preparation remains the overwhelming favorite among the French. The act of slowly diluting pastis, watching its golden hue turn cloudy, is a ritual that connects generations, evoking a sense of nostalgia and familiarity.
Despite the emergence of artisanal and organic pastis brands, Ricard remains the dominant force in the market. In 2022, it was not only the best-selling pastis in France but also the top-selling product in French hypermarkets, surpassing even mineral water, Coca-Cola, and Nutella. During the holiday season of 2024, Ricard outsold Champagne, a testament to its unwavering popularity.
More than just a drink, pastis represents a way of life. It conjures images of relaxed afternoons, lively conversations, and the art of taking things slow. For many, ordering pastis is not simply a choice—it is a tradition, a cultural emblem that speaks of sunshine, camaraderie, and the enduring spirit of French conviviality. It is no surprise that, when asked about their preference, many French drinkers echo the same sentiment: “I don’t drink pastis. I drink Ricard.”
